The Camino Gypsy Chronicles: Marathons and Millstones

Kay:

Marathons

Important lesson learned. #1: When making a reservation, be very very careful to read the fine green print at the end of the entry in "Miam Miam Dodo". This has such important information as to "turn right just before the village on the D64 and continue 3 kilometers". Not the news you want to hear at the end of a long day's hike, when you can barely go another step. This, of course, means 3 extra kilometers onto the next day's hike. On top of that, you then look up and realize it is one of those ubiquitous, charming "hilltop" villages. So, lesson #2 learned: Our reservations are limited to those establishments on the GR 653 (the official designation for the Chemin d'Arles).

Now, imagine this, if you will. The longest day - 19.2 miles. We have emotionally geared ourselves up as best we can. We can do this. The Europeans do it all the time. No very large hills, just way-finding and walking. 80 degrees of much-exposed terrain, but we won't give up. Finally, we arrive at the village of Montesquiou. I can't seem to locate our place. Could it be? Yes, it is right on the trail. Finally, got that right! But, what is this, 2+ miles past the town? We marshall our forces and march on through the exposed flood plain, drenched in sweat, step-by-step, and at last end our 22 mile + marathon of 11 hours of walking in a little slice of heaven.

Millstones

We find an early 18th century farmhouse lovingly and painstakingly restored and expanded since being purchased in 1970. Le Moulin du Manchot. The owner, Gabriel, sometimes rents rooms during the season and has graciously offered a special "pilgrim" rate to us. He is the kindest of hosts, retired from a position with the United Nations and coming to this lovely country home from Paris during the season. It is filled with art works from around the world. He had installed a patio in the ancient Roman "peacock" pattern, made from Carrera marble and black stone from Rome. He speaks English, so we can all join the conversation.

Located right on the Osse River, the home was at one time a wheat mill. He takes us on a tour and shows us the original millstone from around 1700 - in perfect condition - along with a set of ancient milling tools. If the river were to be re-dyked and diverted through the mill as it was in the 18th century, it could grind the wheat growing in the fields completely surrounding the home. After a great night's sleep and a wonderful breakfast, we can finally be grateful that the day's miles have been reduced by 2. It's the small victories...