Wednesday, April 4, 2012

RxSw-Part Two - By Guest Blogger E.O.

Does anyone remember Summer vacation? You know, when you had so much time off you ended up forgetting what day it was. Your hours were filled with swimming, riding bikes with friends and merely relaxing with not much else to do but enjoy watching the sun go down on another perfect, slow-paced kind of lazy day. I had thought these times were well behind me; and indeed I think they are. But, what I now realize is that the tides have turned. No longer do my peers get to enjoy much leisure time, but their parents and grand-parents are living it up!  Ladies and gentlemen, may I present to you Del Webb.
The last few days have been spent in Festival, Arizona which is on the outskirts of Phoenix and is largely made up of "active-adult" communities. This is also where E.F.'s Mom and grandparents live so we were able to enjoy the life of retiree's if only for a few days and let me tell you; it is fabulous. The feeling of perpetual summer abounds here with warm weather year-round, plenty of activities like photography classes or water aerobics and did I mention the massive salt-water pool that is about the size of a soccer field? This is also a community that prefers travel by golf cart instead of car. In fact, most of the houses have little golf cart garages which I found to be adorable.
I had decided to sleep in one morning and meet-up with Alex and E.F. on the putting green. As I walked over to meet them, I stopped into the snack bar where I purchased a coffee for $1.00. They were playing oldies at the perfect ambient volume. I found Alex chipping away and we both mentioned that we could easily get used to this. It was then that I realized that my brother and I had become adults. We were the ones working through the Summer months and our parents were now the ones on vacation; drinking at noon and taking up the ukulele. Who knows what retirement might look like when it is finally our time to do so but I can say based on this experience I think I'll be ready. I'll leave you with a few photos as well as a bit of dialogue between me and a random older gentlemen that occurred just this morning as I was walking to the pool:
Golf cart man: "Good morning! You're looking a little pale there."
Me: "Good morning! Yeah, I know."
Golf cart man: "Don't worry, it'll come."

I hope so golf cart man, I hope so.
Rollin' Deep with E.F.


Spring Training

Cactus in bloom 

Tuscan Roadside Attractions

A field of saffron and distant cypress lined roads turn into a photo op. Other Tuscan roadside attractions include wine, pecorino cheese, honey and olive oil tasting on family run agriturismo farms.










- Posted using BlogPress from my iPad

Location:Lago Trasimeno

A Sunny Sienese Square

Cold Italian beer,
Sweet tarta of marzipan,
Kissed by Tuscan sun.



There seems to be nothing the people of Siena love more than congregating in the piazza to lounge, laugh, love and soak in some rays. The square is packed with tourists and locals alike laying like lizards on the cigarette butt dotted cement. As Hannes and I enjoyed our post lunch dessert, my head in his lap with my straw hat perfectly placed to shade my face, I watched two female college students cram for an exam with a full bottle of white wine nestled between them. It reminded me of when at UCSC my roommate and I would quiz each other on the beach by our house. Hardly felt like studying at all with warm sand between your toes. What is it about the sun that makes even the bleakest task feel... brighter? Thankfully for Hannes and I, though, the only thing we were studying that day was Rick Steve's guide to Siena, which led us to an amazing fresh pasta lunch (of which I'll linger over for you in a separate food blog) and a day of paying homage to a life lived under the Tuscan sun.


Me with my Sienese props.


The Duomo - every town's got one.


Another type of religion...


- Posted using BlogPress from my iPad

Location:Lago Trasimeno

Tuesday, April 3, 2012

Vampires of Volterra

By Volterra moon,
Old mysteries unravel,
Lovers cloaked in night.

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Campervan picnic on the way to the blood sucking village of Volterra. On the menu: focaccia bread and roasted chicken from the market... and a blood orange muahahahaha.


Volterra vampires - Twihards embrace the village where "New Moon" was filmed.





Mysterious passages and doorways beckon...


What rituals go on behind these doors?...


We load up on garlic pizza to survive the night.


Our place of rest.


Volterra sunset, a.k.a. a vampire sunrise.


We retreat into a vampire bar, sipping local blood red wine with the bras of past Volterra victims hanging over our heads.


On our darkened walk home we become newlyweds for all eternity...

- Posted using BlogPress from my iPad

Location:Pienza, Italy

Monday, April 2, 2012

RxSw-Part One - By Guest Blogger E.O.

Dogtown Suite, Hotel Erwin
It was officially official, RxSw (Rome by Southwest) had finally begun! At 11:30 sharp last Friday morning I had made my bed all nice for the house-sitters, triple checked to make sure I had my passport and toothbrush and walked out the door of our Haight Street apartment. Down the four flights of stairs and one hill up I went to Tess' car with suitcase in tow. I was to meet Alex and E.F. in the financial district where they were both getting off work. This ended up being the most stressful part of the trip as this car-less San Franciscan was a lot more used to being a pedestrian. The people, the traffic, all the stop lights and one-way streets made me so nervous I had to start listening to my mellow music mix just to get through it. But, I found them both and as Alex is a geography whiz; we ended up making it all the way to Los Angeles not hitting traffic once. In fact, we made such good time we decided to head straight to Silver lake to meet up with some friends for dinner.
At around midnight, we were all pretty beat so headed over to the Hotel Erwin where we were just looking forward to a comfortable room with two beds to rest for the night. Much to our surprise, when we checked-in we found that the Director of Sales and amazing friend of mine, Jairo has hooked us up with the Dogtown Suite! Our exhilaration overwhelmed our exhaustion as we were in awe over the awesome room. With its gigantic round bed over-looking the Ocean, the private roof-top deck and room decor I can best describe as quintessentially Venice Beach we were pretty stoked (also, a good word to use in Venice). The next morning, we decided on room service if only to enjoy the Suite a bit longer. But, by 11:00 or so we decided to bid the Erwin farewell and begin the 8 hour trek to Tucson, AZ. The morning before  I left on this trip I met for breakfast with a friend who had travelled extensively through the U.S. I told him that I was excited about the whole thing, but just as with the final scene from "The Graduate" it was finally here and I found my emotions to be...well not as ecstatic as what I had thought they might. His advice was to just wait until I got out of the State of California and then it will really hit you. He couldn't have been more right. Once I crossed the AZ border and especially once we made it to Tucson; I was feeling the thrill of the open-road and the excitement of exploring a new city completely. I was officially on an adventure and I was in love with it.

For our first night in Tucson, we stayed at the Hotel Congress which definitely added to the contentment level. This is one of the coolest hotels I've had the pleasure to check out. Think of the Ahwahnee, mixed with a bit of Ace Hotels, except in the Southwest. Ok, maybe that won't work for you but hopefully you'll get an idea of the place with the photos below. Our first night there we sat outside with our drinks, enjoyed the warm night air and listened to the sound of trains coming in and out of the station. It was a great feeling.
The next morning after a hearty breakfast of huevos rancheros, we headed to the Saguaro National Park. Coming from San Francisco; the desert-scape, vast amount of open space and warm weather is the exact opposite of what my life is like on a daily basis so I was reveling in the difference...we all were. We went along a few nice trails through the park and then decided it was time for lunch and then a swim at our next hotel stop the Westin, La Paloma.
La Paloma Resort is a great large resort with bus loads of groups coming in, plenty of recreational activities on-site, restaurants and lots of hotel rooms. I must admit that this "boutique hotel" kind of gal found it to be a but daunting at first. But, as I'm sitting writing this from our sunny outdoor patio with a vast view of Tucson I find that I'm easily able to adapt. Plus, the best part of this hotel is the huge pool slide which is what Alex, E.F. and I will be enjoying until we decide it's time to head to our next destination. Phoenix, AZ. More to come...
That's me! Photo courtesy of E.F. 
Pool side/Pool slide

Sunday, April 1, 2012

The Mighty Guinigi Oak





In the Tuscan town of Lucca - a city surrounded by a mighty Renaissance stone wall and ramparts - you'll find the colossal Guinigi Tower on top of which are planted four oak trees, their growth stunted but their roots firmly planted. It's as if, perturbed by the fact that they couldn't see over the city's wall, the trees decided to seek higher ground and form a new utopian society. Wind-whipped and sun drenched they've watched over the city like acorn launching super heroes.

It was there amongst these four oak amici watching the sun set over the ancient homes of Lucca, as my husband snapped pictures of what he calls my "wild turkey face" (i.e. the riding all day in the Campervan gypsy look) that I realized what it is I love about this land so much - that overwhelming, all-consuming Italian desire to catch a glimpse of beauty and magic no matter the obstacles that lay in one's path.

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More Lucca snapshots...



















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Location:Siena, Italy

Cinque Reasons To Visit Cinque Terre





Nine years ago I first stepped foot in the magical Italian land stuck in time known as the Cinque Terre. Nestled on the coast with its pirate defending castles, it feels like the Disneyland of Italia - the Limoncello is at its most yellow, the mommas yell their loudest across narrow alleyways, the houses are as pastel as Easter eggs, and the smells in the air feel as if they're purposefully being pumped out of vents to lure you inside its Gelaterias and Focaccerias. If this hasn't yet caught your imagination, I offer my top five reasons to visit these five intoxicating lands by the sea.



1.) The Focaccia bread with its lovely green olives lined in neat rows is the best in Italy.
2.) Pesto - yup, still on the food kick - was invented in this region and is worth being bought by the pound.
3.) Manarola. One of the five cities I once passed over is now my and Hannes' favorite seaside gem. Just take a look at the picture at the top of the blog, taken from a lemon tree lined vineyard path, and tell me you don't want to book your flight immediately.
4.) There is no place I've found where life and travel is more easy going.
5.) Save Vernazza. After the decimating storm that passed through last October, Vernazza - one of the most charming towns in all of Italy - lost lives and a million Euros in property damage. It was sad to walk its hollowed out streets with my memories of it haunting me, but the laughter and smiles of its villagers remain as robust as ever. It's a city that wants to come to life again... And tourism dollars will help make that happen. Below, a few of the murals painted by local artists on the flooded storefronts - a sure sign hope is alive and well in Vernazza.















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Location:Volterra, Italy